San Isidro, Juan Garcia Valera

	Murcia, España. (Bullas) 10 hectares.
	San Isidro. (sahn ee-SEE-droh)
	Juan Garcia Valera. (hwan gahr-SEE-ah vah-LAY-rah)
	Nicolas Bastida. (NEE-co-laz bas-TEE-dah)
	Hand-harvested. No irrigation. Chemical-free. Registered organic.
	5,000 cases.
	San Isidro has been part of the Small Vineyards family since 2008.

From one of the poorest and least known regions of España, Bullas has lagged behind the notoriety of neighboring region, Jumilla, which has become famous in recent years due to plantings by high-profile wine companies. However, Bullas is superiorly “high and dry,” and has older vines on average. As a result Juan Garcia Valera is able to make absolutely delightful Monastrell from vines as old as 60 years! Although he is a fourth generation winemaker, Valera does not own a cellar–he can’t afford it. Instead, he bottles his wine at the local co-operative, the same way his family always has. What has changed, is that all grapes, which are picked by hand, are placed into small baskets, and the Valeras are now separating their crus into different, small tanks for maximum control and expression of terroir. When combined with the extreme conditions that these vines thrive under–they can literally go years without rain–it is no wonder that this stressed fruit produces wines as complex as a 90-foot root system. Indeed, one of the ironies of winemaking is that old vines can taste so fresh–those who really know, believe that “freshness” is not only a style, but an illusion, based on intense mineral composition. The theory goes that the minerals provide a base, a slightly earthen foundation, on which the freshness of the young fruit is delivered, strengthening and prolonging the finish.